Wandering around Thimphu

Three random facts about Bhutan: its tallest buildings have 6 or 7 stories; it has no traffic lights; the  exterior of all houses must conform to traditional Bhutanese design and decorations. As for traffic lights it wasn’t always so. Thimphu, the national capital, installed a traffic light, but the public complained and traffic police reappeared in its place.  A few minutes of watching an officer direct traffic with precise arm motions suggests a picturesque but tiring job. A chance to reflect on how gross national happiness is computed.

Thimphu is a national capital with no skyscrapers, hillside condos, men in suits or heavily guarded government buildings. Still we saw construction as we drove into the city; new buildings were going up everywhere and without the help of cranes. Men in suits were replaced by men in skirts, the gho. Government buildings, housed in traditional buildings, were identified by maroon and orange signs at the entrance.

Royal Academy of Performing Arts Building

Royal Academy of Performing Arts "Girls" hostel

Our usual routine is to wander through a city and decide where we will eat. This time we relied on Lonely Planet’s Bhutan edition. Restaurants don’t post their menus, so finding interesting and appetizing options was difficult. We chose the Hotel Jumolhari and ordered naan, chicken kebobs, mushrooms with cheese (Bhutanese). We hadn’t noticed the Lonely Planet’s advice to order meals in Bhutan an hour ahead in order to avoid a long wait. We waited. Fortunately the results were worthwhile. So as we were eating in the Himalayas on the other side of the world from our former home in Raleigh, North Carolina (USA) and three young men and a “coach” sat at a table next to us. The coach had on a UNC cap so we checked out to see if it was an accidently choice of head gear. He is a basketball coach and lives in north Raleigh; he was running a two week basketball camp in Bhutan.

We stayed at the Hotel Druk – free WiFi, CNN and Al Jazerra, and an amazing bathroom. The large room seems typical of moderately up market hotels. Even budget hotels are roomy. Television is less common and WiFi rarer. We read that Thimphu has a severe water shortage with some areas of the city receiving only 2 hours of water a day (The Journalist, 1 July 2012).  There was no note of this in our hotel. But we received the standard encouragement to use towels and linens for more than one day.

As we checked out the neighborhood (in the center of the city) we walked through knots of Indian workers, similar Singapore’s Little India on a weekend night. By Monday morning the workers were gone, but a gaggle of pigeons had taken over.  More common than a gathering of pigeons are zonked out dogs sleeping in small groups almost everywhere. At night they regain their energy and start barking – an unwelcome evening sound. As a Buddhist nation Bhutanese share their space with dogs, cattle, flies and apparently pigeons.

In 2008 Bhutan held its first election and the second election is rolling around. It must be held by March 2013; similar to Malaysia a specific date has not been set. Outdoor bulletin boards, labeled as “Advertising for Elections”  had posted Election Commission announcements in English and the national language. After living in Malaysia we were particular conscious of how much room the wording allows for mischievous interpretation, for example, “engage in healthy and constructive criticism that provide alternative perspectives and correct information.” A positive note is that potential political parties can establish websites before being officially registered.” To learn more enlarge the photo and read it for yourself.

Since I have been helping with a project to identify Malaysian women’s participation in parliament and state assemblies, I was interested in the solicitation for women candidates, In Bhutan a potential candidate has to let the local party leader (there are currently five political parties) of her interest. If there are too many prospective candidates a local election is held.

Candidates have to be registered in the census of the
district for a year before the election

We found the sign warning against public defecation and urination intriguing. We wondered if it was for the Bhutanese or for the foreign workers who may be more relaxed in their hygiene. Of course, we wish they could take similar action against animal droppings!

A finally a quasi-touch of home (whether it is Malaysia or the US). Western franchises have yet to appear in Bhutan – no Starbucks, McDonalds, KFC, or 7 – 11. Perhaps the sign is suggests that a franchise invasion is not far off.

Leaving Paro

As we left Paro we took the opportunity to squeeze in a few more sites and learn more about Bhutan. Our final act at the motel was to photograph the lotus flower that graced our ceiling.

We stopped at Kyichi Lhakhang a temple dating to the 7^th century with 19^th century additions. Each side had a long stretch of prayer wheels. I asked how many there were but didn’t get an answer. I wasn’t about to count. Other than turning a wheel by just grabbing and turning the base of a wheel (more tiring than it looks), some pilgrims turn the wheel via ropes and pulleys. (The explanation for this picture came from the Lonely Planet.)

We were allowed to take photographs in the temple. If we had known that photography usually explicitly forbidden we would have taken more. The decorations are made by the monks from butter, dye, and sugar and last up to three years. We saw similar decorations in all the temples and the smell of butter verified their content.  Not shown in our picture are the bowls of water to quench thirst of the temple’s deities and the oil lamps to light the way to heaven that were on the “alter.”

Before we headed to Thimphu we took a short trip toward the Haa Valley. As we drove off we had a last view of the Dzong over padi fields.

The next stop was a chain bridge. The bridge was built in 2005 using some chains from a 15^th century bridge. The “donor bridge” was the last survivor of 8 chain bridges built by Tangtorig Gyalpo (1385-1464) in Bhutan.  This recent version of a chain bridge looked shaky and forbidding. A few meters up the road is its more stable, and more used, bridge. The chain bridge is largely used by adventurous children.

Further up the road this scenic area was at one time the site for capital punishment. Persons convicted of particularly heinous crimes were put in a sack and thrown off a cliff. Their bodies were then left for nature to dispose of.

The sign “sorry for the inconvenience caused” frequently appears in Malaysia by broken equipment and temporarily closed shops. Here is a Bhutanese version.

The March (or shall I say ride) to Taktshang (Tiger's Nest)

Today is our second day in Bhutan. We are beginning to adjust to the altitude around Paro. Arriving from the almost sea level altitude of Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia to Paro, Bhutan (2250m, 7,382ft) is challenging for the first day or two, but the challenge does not include altitude sickness, it only includes occasional heavy breathing while climbing stairs and walking quickly.

Taktshang from valley

Yesterday, Rattu pointed out Taktshang to us. From the valley floor it looked like a white house high on the side of the mountain face. It looked to me to be a difficult climb. I began researching the climb in my Lonely Planet guidebook. The guide book said the trail could be done in a mere 1 3/4 hours. The guidebooks authors must have a different and more fit audience in mind.

A better view of our objective

The trail head begins 8km north of Paro at an altitude of 2600m (8,530ft) in a pine grove with a multitude of horses. Liz wanted to hike, but I knew our true fitness levels and a bit of knowledge of the trail grade. So I gently suggested we provide a boost to the local economy by hiring the horses to take us to the top. Rattu negotiated and got a locals price (1,000 nu) for two horses with riders and one pack horse (to carry our lunch, thermos of Bhutanese Butter tea, and a foam mattress so we could picnic in style). He is a good negotiator as the tourist price is 800 nu per horse. Rattu decided to walk.

Liz overcame her great fear of riding animals (horses, camels, mules, or elephants). But first the guide had to catch my horse who went running off across the meadow. Bhutanese saddles are basically a wooden seat on the horse with a blanket to protect both the horse and the rider. I think the horse had better cushioning. There were two wooden pegs to hold on to, rudimentary stirrups, and no reins or leads.

Liz at the first rest stop.  Get me off this horse!

With several slaps on the rump off we went. The first several hundred meters were relatively level going through a pine forest with what appeared to be Spanish moss hanging from the trees. I later learned there was a stream parallel to the trail, but I was trying to just stay on the horse. I tried to take pictures but was warned to just keep my hands on the pegs. We passed a water powered prayer wheel just before the switchbacks began. The trail s much wider than the trail down the Grand Canyon, but much steeper.

After about an hour we reached a rest stop at a cafeteria at 2940m (9645ft). We did now walk to the facility about 100m off to the side. The guide book warns to be careful as an archery range crosses the trail, but we saw no evidence of it. We dutifully spun the small prayer wheels and did the same with the large one. After 15 minutes we re saddled our horses (Liz and I switched horses for the horses sake to even out their load). My horse ran off again and the guide needed to chase it up the trail. About 45 minutes later we arrived at the ridge overlooking the Monastery of Taktshang. But we stopped to drink some Bhutanese tea, and released the horses to go back down the mountain. The trail is too steep to carry people down safely.

Good bye to our steeds

Rattu suggested we wait for him to go over to the Monastery, which involved descending a staircase, crossing over a bridge and ascending a staircase to Taktshang. Liz and I proceeded with Rattu. We had come up here, we were not going to wait. I think it took us 15 to 20 minutes to reach Taktshang, but Liz thinks it took longer (or as she puts it, "an adventure in survival").

At the monastery we had to check our cameras and cell phones. Bhutan is strict in preventing the taking of pictures inside of monasteries. In prior years people have taken photos inside of monasteries for commercial purposes without providing remuneration to Bhutan. And I think taking pictures is an intrusive invasion of the privacy of the faithful Buddhists. Police guards checked us, and even patted down some Bhutanese young men dressed in gho (the national dress required to be worn by Bhutanese in government offices, schools, and major religious facilities).

At Taktshang the altitude is 3140m (10,301 ft). This is an elevation change of 640m (2100 ft). However the best way to travel to Taktshang is on the back of a magic-tiger, but I am afraid I could not meditate long or deep enough for this to occur.

After visiting the various temple rooms, visiting relics, and observing prayers, we left the monastery as it closed for lunch. We retraced our path to the opposite side of the gorge. As we were walking, Rattu told me that a number of years ago a foreign tourist fell off the trail and plunged down the escarpment. However, for over 10 years his camera was still seen caught in a tree branch so way down the mountain. After this tragic event, railings were installed in dangerous locations.

Stairways and railings

We had our picnic lunch overlooking Taktshang, and finished as the horns announced the end of lunch break at the monastery. We then began our 2 hour walk down the trail.

Back at the Valley View Hotel, we rested and stiffly walked to our dinner.

Location:Paro, Bhutan

Day 1 in Bhutan

Our fellow passenger nestled in the overhead bin was a worthy companion as we headed to Bhutan. We left at 6:50 a.m. and arrived less than 4 hours later. We had a full breakfast on the first leg of the trip and a snack (more generous than peanuts) on the second leg. Thank you Druk Airlines.

Going through immigration and customs were uneventful. My friend Rattu was there to meet us and we were on our way. Our first stop was his niece's cafe where we were introduced to Bhutanese tea - tea, water, and butter. An interesting experience. I will limit myself to drinking it only if it is offered and turning it down would be impolite. As we left I noticed a sign that said no alcohol is served on Tuesdays. The entire country goes dry on Tuesdays. Later we learned that no local driving is allowed on Tuesdays. The combination of no alcohol and no driving seemed a missed opportunity - I would have the no driving and no alcohol on separate days. Perhaps folks are to spend the day feeling totally calm.

Next checked in at Valley View. Our wood paneled room smelled good - and it had no bugs and hot water. So we were off to a good start. While we settling, in Rattu changed into Bhutan's national dress, the gho. To enter government office buildings men and women must wear their national dress. The women's dress, a long skirt (often made from hand woven fabric) and jacket, is less distinctive. (Children must also wear the national dress to school.) Along with the gho men wear very sturdy shoes. Given all the walking people do their feet must be very grateful.

Rattu in his gho - shawl indicates his civil service rank

Our first tourist site was Paro's dzong (Rinpung Dzong), which houses the district government offices and monastery. Although they share space, the religious and government functions are separate. It wasn't always so, but apparently the monks surrendered their temporal power willingly.

Paro Dzong

Inner Courtyard - motif is seen in center of Paro

Among the government offices was budget and finance  -  a small office housed in a traditional space. The employees were on the floor eating lunch, so we did not intrude.

For lunch we had the local red rice, a pork dish (the pork was served with huge portions of fat - so as much as possible no more pork for me), mushrooms in a cheese sauce (really good as are the potatoes in a cheese sauce), great mangoes that melted in our mouths mangoes. After lunch we checked out the National Museum - no photography allowed. There were photos of the various kings - 5 so far. British children would envy the Bhutaese when it comes to learning national history.

The five kings. Note clocks don't indicate city and
give approximations of correct time 

We also saw masks from the dances, which are performed by the monks at festivals. We were disappointed that we would not see any festivals, but Rattu told us that there are so many people it is better to watch them on television. I am sure he is right, plus all the prices go up in a festival area.

The last stop of the day was to Drukgyel Dzong. The trip up prepared us for tomorrow's long hike. We saw prayer flags, they seem to be every where in the vicinity of temples and  bridges. The most common flags had horses representing the wish for a long life. We learned that for centuries the dzongs were fortifications against Tibetan invasions. Now the concern is with the Chinese. The Indian government is building roads in the area to provide defense against China if needed.. (Bhutan's foreign policy is conducted by India and like must countries its foreign aid is tied to its national interests)

Prayer flags - found everywhere

A massive prayer wheel. Turning it takes a bit of practice

A view from the trail

Drukgyel Dzong

A romantic dinner for 2? This is what serious money can buy

Lacking serious money we chose a budget option. At the Explorers Cafe & Pizza we had a spicy ham pizza (our third choice since the shop was out of chicken and beef). By 8:00 p.m. we were fast asleep!

A familiar food with a Bhutanese twist. Not pictured
the catsup and tabasco sauce that accompanied our pizza

Transit Stop In Bangkok

On our way to Bhutan we stopped in Bangkok for the night. We stayed at the Thong Ta Resort. The major attraction was that the hotel had a shuttle to Bangkok's airport. The hotel met our budget hotel standards - bug free, working ac, and hot showers. The elephants that greeted on the bed were an unexpected surprise.

Our towels.  We regretted unraveling them!

Our next task was to find dinner. There was a restaurant across a 6 lane highway with no traffic light in sight. So we just went to the right to try our luck. The Spicy Bar & Restaurant had an English menu and local people eating. I had the best lemon juice in decades - so good I ordered a second round. The sour pork fried rice was also a winner. Doug's chicken with cashews was okay, but not memorable. 

An open air kitchen to the side of the restaurant.

As we walked back to the hotel, no longer in search of food we noticed the life around you.

Several of these around this bar - alas
they didn't seem to bring in customers

A neighborhood taxi service

A stall with sausages - a reminder that we weren't in KL

A roadside shrine by the 7-11

The next morning we left the hotel at 4:30 a.m. (The wake up call came exactly at 4:00 and we were called when the shuttle was ready to leave.)  The airport display reminded us that we need to visit Thailand as soon as Air Asia announces its promotions.

The Churning of the Milk Ocean

MaDFest 2012 Petaling Jaya

How could we miss MadFest 2012? It was free, convenient, and promised a potpourri of Malaysia's cultures. The program organizers wanted to go beyond just Chinese, Indian and Malay performances. The evening of music and dance included: dances from the Punjab, Africa, and Indonesia; Capoeira (Brazilian combination of martial arts, dance, and music); an Orang Asli (indigenous people) dance and a court dance from northern Malaysia; Persian and Sahaja yoga singers.

Here are some pictures from a high energy, entertaining evening.

The beginning - dances arrived on stage by dancing in the aisles

The Sahaja Yoga singers had the audience dancing in the aisles

Capoeiri Group - an athletic performance tour d'force
(even the women showed their skills)

Chinese Drummers

Orang Asli dancers with a motif similar to African dancers.

An African dance group

The Dance of a 1000 Hand (Indonesian) was mesmerizing. We weren't able to get a good shot of the performance.This youtube performance is similar to what we saw it last night, but with a larger troupe. If you view this, may want to skip first two two minutes people wandering through the performance is similar to what was going on during MaDFest.

 

The last performance was exhilarating. A small group sang "Stand By Me." I am not sure why but something led me to expect them to follow up with "Little Darling." The whole troupe got on the stage and seemed ready to dance the night away. Looking forward to the next MaDFest.

A reprise with all groups on the stage