Day 1 in Bhutan

Our fellow passenger nestled in the overhead bin was a worthy companion as we headed to Bhutan. We left at 6:50 a.m. and arrived less than 4 hours later. We had a full breakfast on the first leg of the trip and a snack (more generous than peanuts) on the second leg. Thank you Druk Airlines.

Going through immigration and customs were uneventful. My friend Rattu was there to meet us and we were on our way. Our first stop was his niece's cafe where we were introduced to Bhutanese tea - tea, water, and butter. An interesting experience. I will limit myself to drinking it only if it is offered and turning it down would be impolite. As we left I noticed a sign that said no alcohol is served on Tuesdays. The entire country goes dry on Tuesdays. Later we learned that no local driving is allowed on Tuesdays. The combination of no alcohol and no driving seemed a missed opportunity - I would have the no driving and no alcohol on separate days. Perhaps folks are to spend the day feeling totally calm.

Next checked in at Valley View. Our wood paneled room smelled good - and it had no bugs and hot water. So we were off to a good start. While we settling, in Rattu changed into Bhutan's national dress, the gho. To enter government office buildings men and women must wear their national dress. The women's dress, a long skirt (often made from hand woven fabric) and jacket, is less distinctive. (Children must also wear the national dress to school.) Along with the gho men wear very sturdy shoes. Given all the walking people do their feet must be very grateful.

Rattu in his gho - shawl indicates his civil service rank

Our first tourist site was Paro's dzong (Rinpung Dzong), which houses the district government offices and monastery. Although they share space, the religious and government functions are separate. It wasn't always so, but apparently the monks surrendered their temporal power willingly.

Paro Dzong

Inner Courtyard - motif is seen in center of Paro

Among the government offices was budget and finance  -  a small office housed in a traditional space. The employees were on the floor eating lunch, so we did not intrude.

For lunch we had the local red rice, a pork dish (the pork was served with huge portions of fat - so as much as possible no more pork for me), mushrooms in a cheese sauce (really good as are the potatoes in a cheese sauce), great mangoes that melted in our mouths mangoes. After lunch we checked out the National Museum - no photography allowed. There were photos of the various kings - 5 so far. British children would envy the Bhutaese when it comes to learning national history.

The five kings. Note clocks don't indicate city and
give approximations of correct time 

We also saw masks from the dances, which are performed by the monks at festivals. We were disappointed that we would not see any festivals, but Rattu told us that there are so many people it is better to watch them on television. I am sure he is right, plus all the prices go up in a festival area.

The last stop of the day was to Drukgyel Dzong. The trip up prepared us for tomorrow's long hike. We saw prayer flags, they seem to be every where in the vicinity of temples and  bridges. The most common flags had horses representing the wish for a long life. We learned that for centuries the dzongs were fortifications against Tibetan invasions. Now the concern is with the Chinese. The Indian government is building roads in the area to provide defense against China if needed.. (Bhutan's foreign policy is conducted by India and like must countries its foreign aid is tied to its national interests)

Prayer flags - found everywhere

A massive prayer wheel. Turning it takes a bit of practice

A view from the trail

Drukgyel Dzong

A romantic dinner for 2? This is what serious money can buy

Lacking serious money we chose a budget option. At the Explorers Cafe & Pizza we had a spicy ham pizza (our third choice since the shop was out of chicken and beef). By 8:00 p.m. we were fast asleep!

A familiar food with a Bhutanese twist. Not pictured
the catsup and tabasco sauce that accompanied our pizza