Wandering around Thimphu

Three random facts about Bhutan: its tallest buildings have 6 or 7 stories; it has no traffic lights; the  exterior of all houses must conform to traditional Bhutanese design and decorations. As for traffic lights it wasn’t always so. Thimphu, the national capital, installed a traffic light, but the public complained and traffic police reappeared in its place.  A few minutes of watching an officer direct traffic with precise arm motions suggests a picturesque but tiring job. A chance to reflect on how gross national happiness is computed.

Thimphu is a national capital with no skyscrapers, hillside condos, men in suits or heavily guarded government buildings. Still we saw construction as we drove into the city; new buildings were going up everywhere and without the help of cranes. Men in suits were replaced by men in skirts, the gho. Government buildings, housed in traditional buildings, were identified by maroon and orange signs at the entrance.

Royal Academy of Performing Arts Building

Royal Academy of Performing Arts "Girls" hostel

Our usual routine is to wander through a city and decide where we will eat. This time we relied on Lonely Planet’s Bhutan edition. Restaurants don’t post their menus, so finding interesting and appetizing options was difficult. We chose the Hotel Jumolhari and ordered naan, chicken kebobs, mushrooms with cheese (Bhutanese). We hadn’t noticed the Lonely Planet’s advice to order meals in Bhutan an hour ahead in order to avoid a long wait. We waited. Fortunately the results were worthwhile. So as we were eating in the Himalayas on the other side of the world from our former home in Raleigh, North Carolina (USA) and three young men and a “coach” sat at a table next to us. The coach had on a UNC cap so we checked out to see if it was an accidently choice of head gear. He is a basketball coach and lives in north Raleigh; he was running a two week basketball camp in Bhutan.

We stayed at the Hotel Druk – free WiFi, CNN and Al Jazerra, and an amazing bathroom. The large room seems typical of moderately up market hotels. Even budget hotels are roomy. Television is less common and WiFi rarer. We read that Thimphu has a severe water shortage with some areas of the city receiving only 2 hours of water a day (The Journalist, 1 July 2012).  There was no note of this in our hotel. But we received the standard encouragement to use towels and linens for more than one day.

As we checked out the neighborhood (in the center of the city) we walked through knots of Indian workers, similar Singapore’s Little India on a weekend night. By Monday morning the workers were gone, but a gaggle of pigeons had taken over.  More common than a gathering of pigeons are zonked out dogs sleeping in small groups almost everywhere. At night they regain their energy and start barking – an unwelcome evening sound. As a Buddhist nation Bhutanese share their space with dogs, cattle, flies and apparently pigeons.

In 2008 Bhutan held its first election and the second election is rolling around. It must be held by March 2013; similar to Malaysia a specific date has not been set. Outdoor bulletin boards, labeled as “Advertising for Elections”  had posted Election Commission announcements in English and the national language. After living in Malaysia we were particular conscious of how much room the wording allows for mischievous interpretation, for example, “engage in healthy and constructive criticism that provide alternative perspectives and correct information.” A positive note is that potential political parties can establish websites before being officially registered.” To learn more enlarge the photo and read it for yourself.

Since I have been helping with a project to identify Malaysian women’s participation in parliament and state assemblies, I was interested in the solicitation for women candidates, In Bhutan a potential candidate has to let the local party leader (there are currently five political parties) of her interest. If there are too many prospective candidates a local election is held.

Candidates have to be registered in the census of the
district for a year before the election

We found the sign warning against public defecation and urination intriguing. We wondered if it was for the Bhutanese or for the foreign workers who may be more relaxed in their hygiene. Of course, we wish they could take similar action against animal droppings!

A finally a quasi-touch of home (whether it is Malaysia or the US). Western franchises have yet to appear in Bhutan – no Starbucks, McDonalds, KFC, or 7 – 11. Perhaps the sign is suggests that a franchise invasion is not far off.