Sigiriya and Dambulla

Sigiriya

It is only 1200 steps to the top said our guide.  Daunting but not insurmountable.  

Sigiriya is a large palace complex in the heart of the cultural area of Sri Lanka.  It was built in the late 5th century by King Kasyapa I.  History tells us that he killed his father and then moved the capital city of Sri Lanka from Anuradhapura.  Rightly fearing reprisals, Kasyapa I built his place on a mountain fortress 370 meters above the surrounding plain.  This "impregnable" fortress succumbed after only 7 years.  But what a palace he built in those 18 years.

An outer wall was built approximately 1.5 km from the core of the city.  It consisted of ramparts and an outer moat. The inner moat and ramparts were located immediately outside of the fortified city.  The moat in historical times contained crocodiles.  There were four gates to the city, east, west, south and north.  The east gate was the entrance to the inner city and further guarded the 370 m cliffs of this redoubt.

The Inner Moat (no crocodiles present today) although there were warning signs against swimming.

Once we passed the west gate we entered formal symmetrically laid out gardens,  each side of the main bath a mirror of the other.  Water ponds abounded and fountains were present.  The fountains were fed by an elaborate water system originating in tanks (reservoirs) at the top of the mountain.  Kasyapa I built two palaces, one at the top of the mountain and the other among the gardens at the base.  He rotated between the two palaces seasonally.  However, the mountain palace was the central focal point of this geometrically laid out city.

A garden pond

An unearthed but not restored garden feature.

The approach to the Sigiriya within the inner walls

The remains of a fountain (not the water bottle on the left)

And the stairs begin with Liz taking the lead.

A natural stone gate.

Fresco in a cave.

A 1600 year old fresco

Although the frescoes were exposed to the elements great care was made in keeping water from destroying them.  At other locations in the city, caves which had the frescoes destroyed when they were occupied by monks (I guess they disturbed their meditation).

Liz, our driver and guide at the half way point.

An active archaeological site on the mountain.

The final 300 steps

The entrance to the final climb was through a lions head.  Only the paws remains on either side of the staircase entrance.

Carved water channels etched into the mountain side.

The final two steps.  We made it.

Having been raised in a family of compulsive counters, I cannot climb a set of stairs unless I count them, I actually skipped the routine this time.  I guide said 1202 and the last two were the only ones I counted.

Enough said

The quarters of the kings concubine (500 ladies)

Our intrepid guide, Jahaka

Dambulla Caves

Dambulla Caves is the last cultural site deriving from prehistory.  Guide books indicate that the Dambulla Cave complex dates back into proto-historical, first millennium BCE.  However what the tourist sees is the work of 17th, 18th, 19th and 20th century CE artists.

Unfortunately the temple guide was not proficient in English, and was able only to deliver his speech and was unable to answer questions.

The complex consists of 5 caves, one which was recently quarried out of the mountain in the 20th century.  The other four caves contain magnificant frescoes covering the floor to the ceiling.  Unfortunately I was unable to put it into the context of the temple.

A large meditating Buddha

Meditating Buddha from 18th Century Cave 3

A stupa from the Maharaja Vihara  18th Century

A teaching Buddha from the Maharaja Vitara, 18th century

The patron King

Fresco on the ceiling

A series of  meditating Buddhas  under some magnificent Fresco

Dambulla Caves is worth the visit, beautiful statuary, and frescoes abound.  If you go make sure you have an independent guide who is able to put the frescoes, and statuary in historical context, and is able to point out the significant items.