Visiting Anuradhapura reminds us how badly educated Americans can be about the history of anything but Egypt, Greece, Rome and European history. I will be first to admit that I generally do not do a lot of preparatory work reading up on our travel destinations, but Anauradhapura just blew me away.
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| Jetavanarama Dagoba |
So assuming that many of our readers are similarly handicapped, a brief history is in order. Anuradhapura was founded in the 4th century BCE. Its eventual demise came not from overpopulation or environmental concerns as has been documented (ancient Mayan cities, Mexican cities), but from its abandonment as a capital city following pressure from invading south Indian Chola armies in the 10 century CE. What Sri Lankan archaeologists have uncovered is truly amazing.
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| Stone Carved relief work from 3 CE at Jetavanarama Dagoba |
After its founding by Pandukabhaya, the city grew to a population of 2 million. The city was centered by the citadel containing the administrative center, royal places, and sacred buildings. Much of the citadel has been lost to time, and nature. It has been replaced by modern settlement whose populace is adverse to moving for the sake of archaeologists. The main site is the location of the Sri Maha Bodhi (the sacred bodhi tree) planted and cared for for over 2000 years. The oldest domesticated tree/plant on record. It was originally brought from India by Princess Sagamitta sister of Mahinda the person who introduced Buddhism to Sri Lanka. Surrounding the citadel area is a circular ring dominated by three large dagobas (stupa). Each of the dagoba were the focal point for large Buddhist monasteries described to us by our guide as a "university". These three monasteries plus additional ones in the forest zones on the outskirts of the city educated over 20,000 monks and nuns. The monastery complexes were composed of libraries, teaching areas/classrooms, baths, swimming pools, and refectories. It is interesting that the swimming pools and refectories are most thoroughly documented in the apparent archaeological remains.
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| Twin Ponds (Swimming pools/baths) |
The city is surrounded by five large tanks (reservoirs) which supplied the city with fresh water through an underground water system made from terracotta pipes, some of which still function. In the museum was a water purification system on display for use in individual toilet facilities. A system of three interconnected terracotta jugs process urine through a sand/coconut fibre filter, a charcoal filter, and finally a calcium carbonate process before releasing the liquid into a sewer system. This liquid was collected in lagoons and further processed with calcium carbonate before release into the padi fields. A very sophisticated system for 2500 years ago.
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| Flower offerings at the Bodhi Tree temple |
Three dagoba dominate the landscape, the Jetavanarama Dagoba built in the 3rd century CE by Mahasena. It originally stood over 100 meters in height, and was build entirely with bricks (estimated to be over 92 million). The spire has been lost to nature but the building is still impressive. Abhayagiri Dagoba is equally impressive and was build earlier in 1-2 century BCE.
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| The finest image of a Samadhi Buddha |
The Samadhi Buddha was of special significance to Javaharial Nehru. He requested a picture of the image while imprisioned by the British. The roofed building covering the image was provided as a bequest from Nehru. A bodhi tree was most likely planted behind this Buddha image. Three others (long since lost to nature) surrounded the tree.
With proper reading and understanding to Sri Lankan history, I would return to Anuradhapura again. There is simply too much to be absorbed in one 6 hour visit.
Our guide provided us with a understanding of the Buddhist significance of the site. He also provided a cosmic energy explanation for the city plan, and the use of gems and crystals to increase cosmic energy.
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