Central VIetnam: Tourist Notes (Hue)

Drivers ready to give a tour

The common phrases heard in Hoi An were shop keepers, saying "Come have a look" or "Buy something from me." In Hue no shop keepers offered a similar invitation. Instead providers of transportation (rickshaws, motorcycles or boats) offered a tour for "Just 1 hour." The offer of a 1 hour trip may have exhausted their knowledge of English. We succumbed to a "just an hour" plea and took a boat trip on the Perfume River. The river derives its name from sweet smelling flowers that fall into it during the autumn.




In Hue we toured pagoda, some of the Emperors' tombs, and the citadel (to be described by Doug) and took a cooking class (described by Doug) were our major activities. Otherwise we walked and soaked up the city's environment. To avoid the hottest part of the day we spent the mid-afternoon back at the hotel. We normally walked toward the Perfume River, which involved walking through a street market at all hours. In the evening when business was nearly non-existent we would see clusters of sellers and others (family or friends) playing card. A good portion of their day was spent on the street.

Street seller in Hue - fish in the foreground, then the veggies

She knew we weren't buying - we just one more startled tourist

Another section of the market - wide selection and small quantities

At the Trang Tien Bridge we turned right. As we walked along we saw a small bird market and fish market. The crowded bird cages were depressing - I understand that many birds die in such markets.

Fish for sale - no idea of what is next in their lives

A cage at a small bird market - the bars on the fence (to discourage thieves
is a commentary on their sad state

On the river bank there were rows of boats and women offering to take you out on the river "for just one hour." We succumbed to one of these pleas for businesses. We negotiated a price equivalent to USD3 (middle of the day and business was slow). We boarded the boat oand sat on the ever available small stools. We were joined by the pilot, the operator and her children. We got our money's worth and made up difference between the original price and the negotiated price by buying a handmade card to enclose a wedding gift and a small purse to use for one of our growing collection of Asian currencies. The trip was relaxing and gave us a glimpse of life along the river - no outhouses on the river and only one or two people washing dishes in the river. I am sure what is washed changes during the course of the day.

Boat operator (?) - she sold us the trip

A portion of the large fleet of boats plying the river

A view of a pagoda and statue of Confucius

Another stop along the river bank (turn right after crossing bridge) there is a grocery store (too small to constitute a super market) and a bit further down the Central Market. The grocery was a cheaper source of snacks and coffees. As Heinz stock holders we checked out Heinz products - ketchup (above frozen foods) , mustard and vinegar (in condiments). At the Central Market we received many offers to help us find things. The conversation started with "where are you from?" We tried Malaysia, b/c we figured US triggered hopes that we would spend $$$. One person upon hearing our response said "no way." Others clearly had no idea where Malaysia was. As for the market we wandered through - not as neat and clean as the one in Hoi An, but in any case were already had no suitcase room.

At night we saw a few altars outside shops. Typically they would have paper money, some fruit, and joss streets. This announced that the Month of the Hungry Ghosts had started. Although after reading the link we may have been inferring that the Vietnamese were observing the Hungry Ghost at the same time and in the same way as in Malaysia.

An altar

Another altar - I believe that the flames facilitate
transmitting the offered goods (correct me if I am wrong)

In Hue we had our only unpleasant encounter of our recent travels. A man offered to take us on a motor cycle tour. We declined.
He then asked us to show him Malaysian money, so he could see what it looked like. We don't carry Malaysian money with us so that pretty much ended things. He was clearly unhappy and started on a rant "I am a poor farmer and I can't pay my daughter's school fees." Why tell this story? We have heard in Malaysia that asking to see local money is the first step in setting up a persons to be robbed. Clearly the rant suggested he wasn't a numismatist.   

One of our guilty pleasures was to look into houses and shops that we passed. The entry of houses was close to the street. When we saw this laundry it deserved a picture.

A local laundry