Making a u-turn: stopping at Trongsa

As we left Jakar we stopped to view the scenery and snap signs to help us show that Bhutan is more than temples and mountains.

Management Speak is the universal language
(A Drongkhag is an administrative unit)

We did not visit the Dzong since Rattu wasn't wearing a goh (tourists get a pass). Plus to the untrained eye that all seem quite similar (other than in tact or burned in ruins)

Fine Nu 300 = USD 6

We wondered about the incidence of AIDS. A July 17 newpaper reported that since December 2011 three new HIV cases have been reported each month. 2011 had the highest number of recorded cases to date - 51. The article is filled with statistics; a small population apparently can be studied from many angles.

Trongsa's weekend vegetable market may look like it has been around for centuries. Actually it is less than 2 years old. The location is said to be windy and dusty, but it is close to the town bridge and more accessible. (I read that some of the district villages are so isolated that farmers have to walk a day to reach a road.) The pace is slower than Bangsar's Sunday night market with visiting as well as buying. The market has space for 30 vendors, apparently who shows up depends on what produce is available and ready to sell. By Sunday evening a few vendors were still around.

Here is Rattu talking to a vendor and examining masks, which he eventually bought. He wanted to buy masks, but he was motivated to buy these because the vendor had traveled a long distance. The vendor's specialty were the cymbals and horns used in the temples - the masks were available to him to sell. Rattu often spoke with merchants, vendors and others who came across our path. Is interest in others a part of being Bhutanese, a banker's inherent interest in how things or going, or just Rattu's personality?

The next morning we headed to the Tower of Trongsa Museum. There had only one visitor the week before. Hard to understand - the museum was well laid out and very interesting. It was perfect in the middle of a trip in pulling together what we had seen a hear. The downside - no photography. Even a search of the web turned up only photos of the Tower's exterior.  The museum contains beautiful Buddhist and Bhutanese sculptures, swords and a good interpretive into video. Fortunately there was a gift shop at the end - with high quality products. We were able to buy The Tower of Trongsa: Religion and Power in Bhutan written by Christian Schicklgruber.  Great pictures and a scholarly narrative - a perfect way to recall memories and keep learning. 


At the Dzong an archery match was in progress. We saw archery matches throughout the trip. In Jakar we were invited into the guests' tent where we sipped the local wine - more like a whiskey and a sip was enough. Doug observed that archery serves the same function as golf in other countries - a chance for professionals to get together and like some golfers a chance to gamble and drink. Only men play archery; women can play darts.  An interesting note about Bhutanese archery:  it has double ended field with archers at both ends.  They take turns shooting the 140 meters.  A lot of trust is involved as few of the archers on the "receiving end" appear to take refuge behind the safety barriers.  If someone hits the target singing, dancing and overall celebration occurs.

His score is on his sash

As we  entered the Dzong we ran into civil servants taking a tea break. (A curiosity of Bhutanese dining plates and cups do not linger on the table. The cups were out when we arrived and gone when we came back to the area probably 20 minutes later.) Most of the attendees were local officials, who were asked to make pledges to rebuild the Dzong burnt at Wangdue. I asked if any of the village heads were women "no," I was surprised that polyagomy as well as polyandry are tolerated. The previous king (who is still alive and  abdicated in favor of his son) has 4 wives and each has a palace. One hopes the present king does not add wives and lives a long time.