The details of our trip were totally handled by our friend. He helped us buy air tickets through Atlas Tour & Travel. We met with Langa Dorji, the Atlas CEO, twice. First, to reimburse him for our air tickets, and later to pick up a small gift to deliver to a Bhutanese student who lives in KL. The Atlas website is informative. Based on our visits and the website we recommend checking out the agency. In addition to packaged tours the agency designs individual tours.
Our friend chose the hotels usually by asking colleagues and friends for their recommendations. Most of the hotels are listed in Lonely Planet as were the places we ate. With the exception of the Hotel Druk (USD $100/night deluxe) we spent between USD 20 - 40 per night. Meals were not included. Welcoming tea or early morning tea was added to bills (about USD1 to USD2 per cup).Our rooms were discounted (no travel agent's discount, low season, and a local host). What separated some of the hotels was the quality of their showers - one had a handheld shower head and others had a rainfall shower heads. Except in Thimphu most of the places we stayed had few guests. Rooms were often pine paneled and were cozy. They reminded us of ski lodge rooms.
We often stayed at resorts; I think of resorts having a swimming pool and other on-site recreation. Not sure what defined a resort in Bhutan - all the places we stayed had a detached bathroom and hot water, a restaurant, and a small handicraft shop. No swimming pools or other evident recreation. Of course with the surroundings who needed them?
As for food Bhutan reminded us of Portugal, that is, a handful of tasty dishes. Longer menus usually included Indian and Chinese dishes. We eat relatively little meat in our daily life. So we gravitated toward a vegetarian diet, and the vegetarian offerings were more tempting than the meat. We became fans of kewa datshi (potatoes and cheese) and had it once or twice on most days. Momos were also very tasty. (We tried momos at New Delhi's Central Market, not nearly as good. The best part with one exception, everything was well prepared and tasty - and no stomach problems anywhere.
ATM were available in Para, Thimphu, Trongsa, in Bajo area, and Jakar.
Paro:
Valley View Resort (2 nights): We had pleasant wood paneled room with a nice view of the valley (although most rooms don't have valley view). We had 2 breakfasts, 1 lunch, and 1 dinner. All the food was freshly prepared. It was the right season for incredibly sweet and tasty mangoes. Helpful staff - I was awed by how the staff (all women) lifted our suitcases and bounded up the stairs to our room. Wifi was not available and no television in room.
Phuentshok Juney Hotel (1 night): In downtown Paro. A pleasant hotel tending toward upmarket (]except for the Hotel Druk and this hotel only a bar of soap was provided in the bathroom. Since we had our own shampoo and the like, we didn't notice exactly what was there). One flight of steps to lobby and two more to our room. Even the staff that carried our luggage were winded. We ordered a fixed price Indian dinner - a pleasant farewell dinner to Bhutan and Rattu. Wifi was available - service was a bit spot probably b/c of room's location (corner room facing Main Street) - a television with satellite was in the room.
Explorers Pizza & Cafe: A pleasant place in the center of Paro where we stopped for a late afternoon pizza (first of three pizzas)
Thimphu:
Druk Hotel (2 nights): An upmarket (for us) hotel USD100 for a deluxe room. A welcoming basket of fruit, a full set of bathroom accessories (lotion, toothbrush, etc.), satellite tv, and good wifi. Good location - we could walk almost everywhere. At breakfast we ordered parathas, but when we were told that they would 20 minutes to prepare we switched to eggs and toast. (For photos see 17 July entry on Thimphu)
Wangchuk Hotel (1 night). Markedly cheaper than the Druk but its better days are behind it. Construction going on right outside by our room, but it ended up not being a concern. An advantage of not using cranes and heavy construction equipment. Our room was tiny. The staff was the most distracted that we encountered on the trip - no help with luggage and we practically had to chase down the waitstaff to get breakfast. We met and had an interesting conversation with conference attenders from Afghanistan. So price, location (near center of town) and interesting guests made the stay okay. Wifi in the room.
Meals:
Hotel Jumolhari (2 dinners): We waited nearly an hour the first time, pre-ordered the 2nd time (several hours ahead) much shorter wait. Good chicken kabobs, kewa datshi, naan, and vegetable dishes. Beer came in liter bottles (Austrians at a neigbhoring table couldn't resist snapping a picture of a bottle). Also has a number of western dishes included grilled cheese sandwich, but we didn't check them out.
Seasons Pizzeria (1 lunch): The one place I would run back to if I were in Thimphu. We had a good pizza; the salads and pastas listed on the menu looked tempting. A good culinary change of pace.
Others: Rice Bowl (1 dinner) A Chinese restaurant - the vegetable items we ordered were good, the chicken was underspiced for our taste. Zone (1 lunch) an ambiance that reminded us of our backpacker days in Indonesia
Phobjkhu
Yueloki (1 night - mobile: 17851193/17874116; fax 022-442553): This was our favorite place - it reminded us of a country inn. Rooms were not much different from other places, but we were in the country and the views were seductive. Food service was a cross between family style and buffet - a few dishes were placed on a table (nothing cooling in a chafing dish). The shower was great - hot water with a rain shower head.
Jakar
We spent 4 nights at a guest house (not listed in Lonely Planet) near the location of the new city. Given the price (heavily discounted) it was okay. We should have noticed when we looked at the room was that the shower was located by the bathroom door (separated by 0.5 meters from the drain) hence floor tended to be wet and slippery. Toilet's flushing mechanism didn't work - we had to resolve it by dumping a bucket of water in the toilet; annoying late at night. The hot water was unreliable. Meals were fine. Late in our stay a group of tourists came. The good part - they requested a dance performance, they got it, and we saw it. The other part - we had buffet at dinner okay (but not my favorite way of eating). The breakfast buffet was mediocre; with the benefit of hindsight we should have asked for freshly cooked eggs and toast. Breakfast was typical: juice, fresh fruit, eggs, toast, and corn flakes. When I asked for chili sauce to go with the eggs they brought Sing Cheung chili sauce made in Kolkata. I was hooked - heavy on the vinegar and light on the sugar - have searched in KL. No luck. Hope I can find it when we next go to India. The toast serving here and else where was four pieces The staff were very nice and worked long days. The night of the dance performance the same folks who had been at breakfast were still working after 10.
We got a mini-tour of Jakar's Amankora Hotel since it had no guests at the time. At USD1300 single/1400 double per night (all meals included) it is well out of our price range. The rooms were large and tasteful. There are no signs so that guests feel like it is a home. It is a place that should appeal to people who want privacy. While money may make travel easier, no private planes in Bhutan and bumpy roads are probably unavoidable.
Trongsa
Meals:
Early in the trip we ate at the Oyster House Restaurant. We puzzled over the name, since oysters weren't on the menu and I am not sure that they are the menus anywhere in Bhutan. The restaurant was recommended by locals. It had an extensive menu (Bhutanese, Chinese and Indian). The room next to the dining room has a huge snooker table. On our way back we ate at a corner restaurant and ordered noodles. They were greasy, lucky I was hungery. For dinner we ate an Indian meal at the Norling Hotel.
Wangdue:
Hotel Tashing (1 night): We had lunch here after we visited the Dzong (the one that was burnt down). We sat in a small dinner room and Rattu chatted with an older man (even older than we are) who told him to make sure that we had a good experience. The hotel is a basic budget hotel, and clean and safe. It first I thought that we were the only guests (a look at downstairs rooms that had bathtubs were too deserted to consider). A few other guests showed up. The dining room did a steady business. Although the town has moved the people working on the Dzong's reconstruction and possibly long-term clients seem to keep in business. The staff member with the best English had quirky (in a good way) personality. For example, Rattu was not present when the tea came. She assured us that she knew how he would drink it because he was Bhutanese.
Meals on the Road:
We had three meals on the road. One was for noodles in an area outside Thimphu. Unfortunately we forgot to note the name and exact location. The noodles are only available in the particular area and only in the morning. The broth was hot with the right amount of spice. I skipped eating the beef - I find meat in the morning unappealing. Wish we could have tried this dish more than once.
The View Point Resort (between Wangdue and Thimphu) It was a cloudy day - so no view. Lunch was buffet-style; small containers so a high turnover. Earlier in our trip a hotel manager complained about customers of a given nationality, "They say only one is eating the buffet, but actually three share." So we were amused when a man said that only one person (his wife or girl friend was eating) and then he proceeded to put part of the meal on his plate.
Chumey Nature Resort (between Trongsa and Wangdue). We had 5 dishes rice plus vegetables. The vegetables were fresh and well prepared. Seemed very healthy.
Our friend chose the hotels usually by asking colleagues and friends for their recommendations. Most of the hotels are listed in Lonely Planet as were the places we ate. With the exception of the Hotel Druk (USD $100/night deluxe) we spent between USD 20 - 40 per night. Meals were not included. Welcoming tea or early morning tea was added to bills (about USD1 to USD2 per cup).Our rooms were discounted (no travel agent's discount, low season, and a local host). What separated some of the hotels was the quality of their showers - one had a handheld shower head and others had a rainfall shower heads. Except in Thimphu most of the places we stayed had few guests. Rooms were often pine paneled and were cozy. They reminded us of ski lodge rooms.
We often stayed at resorts; I think of resorts having a swimming pool and other on-site recreation. Not sure what defined a resort in Bhutan - all the places we stayed had a detached bathroom and hot water, a restaurant, and a small handicraft shop. No swimming pools or other evident recreation. Of course with the surroundings who needed them?
As for food Bhutan reminded us of Portugal, that is, a handful of tasty dishes. Longer menus usually included Indian and Chinese dishes. We eat relatively little meat in our daily life. So we gravitated toward a vegetarian diet, and the vegetarian offerings were more tempting than the meat. We became fans of kewa datshi (potatoes and cheese) and had it once or twice on most days. Momos were also very tasty. (We tried momos at New Delhi's Central Market, not nearly as good. The best part with one exception, everything was well prepared and tasty - and no stomach problems anywhere.
ATM were available in Para, Thimphu, Trongsa, in Bajo area, and Jakar.
Paro:
Valley View Resort (2 nights): We had pleasant wood paneled room with a nice view of the valley (although most rooms don't have valley view). We had 2 breakfasts, 1 lunch, and 1 dinner. All the food was freshly prepared. It was the right season for incredibly sweet and tasty mangoes. Helpful staff - I was awed by how the staff (all women) lifted our suitcases and bounded up the stairs to our room. Wifi was not available and no television in room.
 |
| Our room was at the end (right), dining hall was down the corridor |
 |
| View from our room |
Explorers Pizza & Cafe: A pleasant place in the center of Paro where we stopped for a late afternoon pizza (first of three pizzas)
Thimphu:
Druk Hotel (2 nights): An upmarket (for us) hotel USD100 for a deluxe room. A welcoming basket of fruit, a full set of bathroom accessories (lotion, toothbrush, etc.), satellite tv, and good wifi. Good location - we could walk almost everywhere. At breakfast we ordered parathas, but when we were told that they would 20 minutes to prepare we switched to eggs and toast. (For photos see 17 July entry on Thimphu)
Wangchuk Hotel (1 night). Markedly cheaper than the Druk but its better days are behind it. Construction going on right outside by our room, but it ended up not being a concern. An advantage of not using cranes and heavy construction equipment. Our room was tiny. The staff was the most distracted that we encountered on the trip - no help with luggage and we practically had to chase down the waitstaff to get breakfast. We met and had an interesting conversation with conference attenders from Afghanistan. So price, location (near center of town) and interesting guests made the stay okay. Wifi in the room.
Meals:
Hotel Jumolhari (2 dinners): We waited nearly an hour the first time, pre-ordered the 2nd time (several hours ahead) much shorter wait. Good chicken kabobs, kewa datshi, naan, and vegetable dishes. Beer came in liter bottles (Austrians at a neigbhoring table couldn't resist snapping a picture of a bottle). Also has a number of western dishes included grilled cheese sandwich, but we didn't check them out.
Seasons Pizzeria (1 lunch): The one place I would run back to if I were in Thimphu. We had a good pizza; the salads and pastas listed on the menu looked tempting. A good culinary change of pace.
Others: Rice Bowl (1 dinner) A Chinese restaurant - the vegetable items we ordered were good, the chicken was underspiced for our taste. Zone (1 lunch) an ambiance that reminded us of our backpacker days in Indonesia
Phobjkhu
Yueloki (1 night - mobile: 17851193/17874116; fax 022-442553): This was our favorite place - it reminded us of a country inn. Rooms were not much different from other places, but we were in the country and the views were seductive. Food service was a cross between family style and buffet - a few dishes were placed on a table (nothing cooling in a chafing dish). The shower was great - hot water with a rain shower head.
Jakar
We spent 4 nights at a guest house (not listed in Lonely Planet) near the location of the new city. Given the price (heavily discounted) it was okay. We should have noticed when we looked at the room was that the shower was located by the bathroom door (separated by 0.5 meters from the drain) hence floor tended to be wet and slippery. Toilet's flushing mechanism didn't work - we had to resolve it by dumping a bucket of water in the toilet; annoying late at night. The hot water was unreliable. Meals were fine. Late in our stay a group of tourists came. The good part - they requested a dance performance, they got it, and we saw it. The other part - we had buffet at dinner okay (but not my favorite way of eating). The breakfast buffet was mediocre; with the benefit of hindsight we should have asked for freshly cooked eggs and toast. Breakfast was typical: juice, fresh fruit, eggs, toast, and corn flakes. When I asked for chili sauce to go with the eggs they brought Sing Cheung chili sauce made in Kolkata. I was hooked - heavy on the vinegar and light on the sugar - have searched in KL. No luck. Hope I can find it when we next go to India. The toast serving here and else where was four pieces The staff were very nice and worked long days. The night of the dance performance the same folks who had been at breakfast were still working after 10.
We got a mini-tour of Jakar's Amankora Hotel since it had no guests at the time. At USD1300 single/1400 double per night (all meals included) it is well out of our price range. The rooms were large and tasteful. There are no signs so that guests feel like it is a home. It is a place that should appeal to people who want privacy. While money may make travel easier, no private planes in Bhutan and bumpy roads are probably unavoidable.
Trongsa
Tashi Ninjay Guest House (1 night not in Lonely Planet) in the heart of the city. We could walk to the
Dzong and check out Trongsa restaurants and shops. Our room had a balcony which overlooked the Dzong. We decided to skip having dinner prepared for us and went to some place cheaper (and less food). Our well cooked breakfast with muesli was perhaps the best of the trip. Like Yueloki we could enjoy breakfast and a great view at the same time.
 |
| Tashi Ninjay Guest House dining room |
Meals:
Early in the trip we ate at the Oyster House Restaurant. We puzzled over the name, since oysters weren't on the menu and I am not sure that they are the menus anywhere in Bhutan. The restaurant was recommended by locals. It had an extensive menu (Bhutanese, Chinese and Indian). The room next to the dining room has a huge snooker table. On our way back we ate at a corner restaurant and ordered noodles. They were greasy, lucky I was hungery. For dinner we ate an Indian meal at the Norling Hotel.
Wangdue:
Hotel Tashing (1 night): We had lunch here after we visited the Dzong (the one that was burnt down). We sat in a small dinner room and Rattu chatted with an older man (even older than we are) who told him to make sure that we had a good experience. The hotel is a basic budget hotel, and clean and safe. It first I thought that we were the only guests (a look at downstairs rooms that had bathtubs were too deserted to consider). A few other guests showed up. The dining room did a steady business. Although the town has moved the people working on the Dzong's reconstruction and possibly long-term clients seem to keep in business. The staff member with the best English had quirky (in a good way) personality. For example, Rattu was not present when the tea came. She assured us that she knew how he would drink it because he was Bhutanese.
Meals on the Road:
We had three meals on the road. One was for noodles in an area outside Thimphu. Unfortunately we forgot to note the name and exact location. The noodles are only available in the particular area and only in the morning. The broth was hot with the right amount of spice. I skipped eating the beef - I find meat in the morning unappealing. Wish we could have tried this dish more than once.
The View Point Resort (between Wangdue and Thimphu) It was a cloudy day - so no view. Lunch was buffet-style; small containers so a high turnover. Earlier in our trip a hotel manager complained about customers of a given nationality, "They say only one is eating the buffet, but actually three share." So we were amused when a man said that only one person (his wife or girl friend was eating) and then he proceeded to put part of the meal on his plate.
Chumey Nature Resort (between Trongsa and Wangdue). We had 5 dishes rice plus vegetables. The vegetables were fresh and well prepared. Seemed very healthy.
No comments:
Post a Comment