Showing posts with label Puducherry. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Puducherry. Show all posts

Sunday, February 5, 2012

India travel logistics

This trip to India was almost done on a whim. In early November we discovered a dance festival in Chennai, India. we looked at each other and said, why not! I began the process by checking the fares on Air Asia. KL to Chennai had a fare of < USD 100++++ (taxes, fees, credit card charges, luggage, and seat reservations). By the time I added in fuel surcharges, taxes, baggage fees, seating fees, booking fees, credit card convience fees, the cost more than doubled. The 4 hour flight cost still less than half of the competition. I then decided on a date for return. This choice as driven by fares that dropped after Jan 3. We chose to return from Bangalore.

With the bookends in place, we then looked for accommodations in Chennai. Our friend Patrick was our informant. He suggested the New Woodlands Hotel. It was an appropriate recommendation. Reservations were made online, but I needed to arrange for a deposit of the first night. This required making arrangements with my local bank. I couldn't use my US based credit cards as I had only one line for my address and the credit card processing company required two address lines to be entered. This issue was eventually overcome. Once I made the payment online, my Malaysia bank called me within 2 minutes to confirm the transaction.

The final piece of the logistics jigsaw puzzle was arranging for our 10 day tour. We have a self imposed limit on one/two Indian states per visit. This time it was Tamil Nadu. I used the same travel agency we used for our Rajastan tour, Glimpses of India. After several round of proposals (one with ten hotels in ten days) we settled on a trip with several places where we stayed for two nights. However, I did not get the hotel names until after the payments were made.

This time payment was difficult. Paypal suspended payments to India so that was not an option. It had to be a bank wire transfer. This required a telephone confirmation with my US bank, but their online form did not allow for an international telephone number. After a midnight call from Malaysia to NYC, I discovered that if I put a special number in the field (undocumented) and then added a comment which included my international phone number they would call me. So I tried, and they confirmed, although it took several attempts for NYC to get a clear connection.

Now for the tour portion of our trip. First stop was Puducherry (Pondicherry), a Indian city with heavy influence from the French. We stayed at the Anandha Inn. This was a nice 3.5 star business hotel. Our fellow guests included Lenovo expats, HP expats, and others. Discussions overheard at breakfast included how to segregate core business processes from non-core business processes. This hotel had the first display of miniature liquors that I have seen on a hotel room desk. At least 18 bottles were displayed. The city was reminiscent of Vietnamese cities from the late 1960's.

The second stop was the Grand Gardenia hotel in Trichy. The Grand Gardenia is located on a major limited access highway away from the center of the city. Although we don't like hotels on the outskirts of town, this hotel was nice and it had a great restaurant. The only drawback - soft beds. But for two nights it was good and the food great.

The next stop was Coimbatore at the Alankar hotel. This hotel was located in the center of the city, and we walked. We saw the city central prison (across the street from the main bus station). We visited a Sari department store and were objects of curiosity as we wondered through the city.  Dinner was eaten in the hotel.

The following day we went to Coonor, a hill station at approximately 2000m (7000').  The purpose for this visit was the train trip to Ooty.  On our way we learned the limitations of the AC and cooling system of our car.  The driver had struggled with the AC for the previous two days, but it was not a real problem as the weather was cool.  On the steep climb up the mountain, we stopped several times to top off the radiator.  Since there were no obvious leaks, I suspected a header gasket or cracked engine block, but I kept my mouth firmly shut. We made it to the top and for the rest of the trip we did without AC.

The train to Ooty runs on the Nilgiri Mountain Railway, a narrow gauge railway (UNESCO cultural site) featured in the movie "A Passage to India."  We got to the station early saw the early 20th century Swiss-made steam engine on its way down the mountain (a four hour trip).  Our train up the mountain was interesting.  It was a short segment lasting only 1 1/4 hours.  We were pulled by slightly more modern diesel powered traction pusher engine.  We paid 102 INR for a "first class" ticket.  The car was had AC (the windows opened) and the seating in the cabin was only 4 adults per bench.  Further back tickets were 3 INR.  From the squeals of the children as we went through the tunnels, I think the 3 INR passengers had a lot more fun.  We had a delightful conversation with a retired Australian filmmaker.

Ooty was another item on logistics planning that I missed.  At the last moment the travel agent included a "mandatory" New Years Eve gala fee of $29.95 USD.  I should have been clued in at the price, but I paid the fee.  In fact there was a gala, but was it worth $29.95 USD.  More on that in a later blog.  We were unable to see much of Ooty.  Weather intervened with Cyclone Thane bringing rain, wind, fog and "cold" weather to the mountains.

The routing to Mysore went through two animal reserves.  If I had spent time with maps, I might have noted these and done further research.  It was the right season to see wild animals.

The final stop before Bangalore was Mysore for two nights.  Unfortunately, the hotel was located in an industrial area on the fringe of the city.  So much for trusting the travel agent.  Because we were located on the fringe of the city, we were unable to walk through the city, and Mysore is a walkable city.

At the end of the trip we discovered the driver was provided with no lodgings, although we frequently saw drivers quarters listed on the rate card for the various hotels.  I don't know if the lack of drivers' accommodations were the cause, but the driver had severe back problems the last two days of the trip.

So what did I learn from this experience.  Check, check, and check.  Check the hotels, find their locations and learn as much as possible about the temples you are going to visit.  Did we have a good time, emphatically the answer is yes, but it could have been better if I had done my homework first.











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Thursday, January 26, 2012

From to Chennai to Puducherry

Our trip to Tamil Nadu was quickly arranged and we left many details to the travel agency. In other words, after we left Chennai we had little idea of what was ahead for us. The first days were filled with monuments and temples we never knew existed. Most were UNESCO World Heritage Sites - there are many world hertigate sites. Our first stop was  Mahabalipuram.. It was supposed to be about an hour drive from Chennai, but the Prime Minister was visiting Chennai and roads were closed, so an hour become more like two hours. We visited 5 areas spread over 8 square kilometers that included temples and stone sculptures, many carved from a single rock, date back to the 7th century.
A guide (Basru) brings meaning to the visual treats



                                                  A tee-shirt can add to the memories

Due to a strike all the craft shops  were closed.  They were protesting local zoning rules against locating stalls in the park.  A similar one day work stoppage in other parts of Tamil Nahu was to protest Kerala's opposition to the enlargement of a dam, which delivers significant water supplies to Tamil Nadu. Over the next few days we read stories of "black flag" protests and strikes - shopkeepers close their shops and deny the government a day's worth of tax revenues.
Unrelated to the strikes were the banners and graffiti with the hammer and sickle, which we saw from Puduicherry (our next stop) and onward. We asked our driver about the popularity of the Communist Party. He said that the communists were active in Kerala. He didn't have anything more to say on the subject of communists, but he had a lot to say about corruption. He believed that the large number (142 more or less) of Indian political parties was at the heart of corruption. In contested districts the parties have been known to give potential voters can get color television, money, or other inducements. The driver believed that Indian needs a two-party system and cited Singapore as a political model. Actually Singapore has more than two political parties, but everyone we have met in our travels admires its lack of corruption and aggressive anti-corruption strategies (a public official caught taking a bribe can lose his job and pension). BTW in Malaysians advocates  two political parties see it as a way to create multi-ethnic parties instead of its current racial based parties.
Puducherry was a former French colony until 1957. We stayed at the Anandha Inn. It is located in a central area, so we could wander the streets and enjoy the city's "French feel."

The room included this line up of adult beverages
The next morning we headed to Auroville - an "ideal township" that reminded us of Eugene, Oregon and similar areas that seemed to be caught in a communalism time warp. It struck us as a pleasant place to spend a few days, but we found the operationalization of "realiz[ing] human unity" unnerving.

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Street in Puducherry - quieter & cleaner than Chennai



Puducherry - window grate
                                         Elephant outside the Ganesh temple -temple elephants may get a
                                         rejuvenating holiday
Faded sign reads "green point" - no question what is more important


Tree in Auroville



Auroville Path to the Matrimandir

Auroville near Visitors Centre toward cafe and gift shop