Visiting a Gurdwara (Sikh Temple) in Kuala Lumpur

When we saw that the Malaysian Cultural Group (MCG) had organized a tour of a Sikh Temple  we jumped at the chance. The particular tour was open only to members. What to do? Join.

The  Gurdwara Tatta Khalsa Diwan is located on 2 acres in Chow Kit - a section of the city we had heard about but never visited. As we walked through Chow Kit knew that this was a  place to take visitors, at least the ones who don't mind visiting a grittier part of urban Asia. Chow Kit has the city's largest market, but at night the area becomes seriously sketchy.

Fruits at the market

Prior to the tour we received a memo with dress directions. No shoes, modest clothing, and a head covering for men and women. A temple member helped the men with their head coverings. The tour began with Mr. Singh, the temple president, giving us a history of Sikhs in Malaysia. (Sihks originally came to serve in the colonial army and police. Currently there are roughly 100,000 Sihks in Malaysia and 150 gurdwara.) Before the tour I knew was that: Sikh men had the last name "Singh," but all Sikh males are Singhs but not all Singhs are Sikhs;" Sikhs didn't cut their hair; and they wear turbans. I now know much more. Some of which we will share here. Of course, any errors are mine alone

Mr. Singh in his office

Sikhism is a monotheistic religion. Its temples have no statues, idols, or sacred pictures. The Guru Granth Sahib, its sacred book, is the focus of a gurdwara and the community; it is not worshiped but respected. It has writings from other religions including Islam.Mr. Singh's major project has been amassing 8 kilograms of gold to cover the altar that contains the Guru Granth Sahib.

We were visiting on the first of a three day celebration of the birth of Guru Nanak, Sikhism's founder. Temple members take turns in a continuous reading of the Guru Granth Sahib. In the prayer room a few men and women were seated. Men on one side and women on the other, but equidistant from the altar. The prayer room can be opened up and accommodate for than 1000 devotees. The gurdwara has multiple prayer rooms that enable members to hold rituals, such as, weddings, at the same time.

Close up of an altar; Guru Granth Sahib under the gold cover

A view into the prayer

We entered a room the contains multiple copies of the Guru Granth Sahib. Members may take a copy for their own use at home. The room was seriously cold. There is a space to the side where Mr. Singh retreats to rest and think. As is true of other places in the temple - the room is not Mr. Singh's private retreat; others can use it as well.

Copies of the Guru Granth Sahib are under the white cover

We asked about Sikh baptisms and funerals. Mature persons who are ready to maintain a Sikh life style may be baptized. Sikhs respect all religions and do not proselytize. Still a person may ask if s/he can join the Sikh community and be baptized. A MSG member and member of the community said that when her mother died her body was kept at the house for prayers then she was cremated. The temple provides a hearse and clothes and other materials needed for a funeral.

We sat down for a vegetarian lunch. A gurdwara serves vegetarian meals three times a day. (Our neighbor from India said that from time to time when she was a student she and her friends would go to a Sikh temple to eat.) We were asked to only ask for as much as we would eat (seconds allowed). Lunch was tasty - worth a revisit.

Lunch

 After lunch we went to the kitchen and met the chef. Virtually all the kitchen workers are volunteers as are the row of women preparing the vegetables. (Doug just read that in addition to tithing Sihks are expected to give time to volunteer at the temple.) Members also drop off food. Meals are prepared from purchased food and donations.

Menu for the week

Preparing Vegetables

The kitchen: Old fashion, huge pots and burners

As we left we saw a white board containing the verse of the day (my term). When a child is born and her/his family visits the temple they will give their child a name that begins with the first letter of the verse.

The gurdwara is open, welcomes visitors (and diners), photography is allowed. On a typical weekday it is just a series of open, empty rooms. We were told not to hesitate to drop in if a wedding was going on. I wish that I had known this when I saw the temple door entrance pictured below.

Wedding invitation (?) in Chennai

We were happy that we joined the Malaysian Cultural Group. We had a chance to broaden our knowledge of Malaysia and SE Asia and met others with similar interests.