Fort Cochin (Kochi)

Our last stop in Kerala was Fort Cochin.  The metro area is large and parts of the city are on various peninsulas and islands that are linked together by ferries and bridges. When we booked the tour we needed to choose where we wanted to stay; in Fort Cochin with the historical buildings and charm, or  Ernakulam.  However as we learned from our guides, a major portion of the population lives on Vypeen Island, and Vallarpadam Island just to the north.  The tourist maps show no streets there, but they are densely populated.  We chose to stay in Fort Cochin, and were booked into a heritage boutique hotel (Killian's) on Calvathy Road.  This was a good choice, not only was the hotel nice, the restaurant fantastic, and we could easily walk to most of the tourist sites.

As our trip came to a close, we need to descend from the Western Ghats.  The valleys were beautiful, and we had wonderful vistas to gaze at.  On several occasions I requested that the driver stop so I could get pictures.  We saw large waterfalls and wide valleys.  As we descended it got warmer and population density increased.  It was almost a shock when we encountered metro Kochi.  We had to skirt around the southern sided of the city and crossing private toll bridges (the list of exceptions to tolls was interesting starting with the President and Prime Minister of India, and including pensioners, police, etc.).

Western Ghats on descent to Kochi

Waterfall in Western Ghats

A view of the Western Ghats

Our driver had some difficulty finding the hotel, but had no problem with asking for directions.  Although he carried a smart phone all the time, he never seemed to use some of its advanced features.  We made arrangements for a representative of the tour company to meet us the following morning to follow-up on a refund due us (this was not a problem and our tour company was very accommodating).

After a quick rest (and shower) we began our exploration of Fort Cochin.  As always, I am enamored by ferries (Liz is not) and spent some time watching a ferry unload.  Cars, trucks, buses, motorcycles, and pedestrians are crammed on these boats.  Star Ferry in Hong Kong would be luxurious in comparison.  The massive amount of water exiting the backwaters joins the Arabian Sea.

Kochi Ferry

 It is so massive that only a small amount of sea water actually enters.  Tankers, freighters, and container ships enter and exit the harbour with regularity.

Chinese Nets at Fort Kochi

Fishermen mending their nets

Lining both sides of the strait are the Chinese fishing nets.  They take their name from the original designs brought to Kochi in the 14th century by traders. The technology has been enlarged and expanded by local fishermen.  On a Saturday afternoon, many families were walking along the waterfront and beach areas, vendors were selling an assortment of items (locally roasted nuts, ice cream, canned drinks, sliced fruit, toys, and novelties).  People willing pose for picture, and businessmen tried to attract our business (we stopped at a fish restaurant for a mid-afternoon drink of fresh lime and sparkling soda.  While we are careful with our selection of food and drinks in India, we do indulge somewhat, but no ice and bottled water only.

A vendor roasting nuts

We left the beach and wandered looking for dining choices, and searched for Sing Cheung Chili Sauce (Kolkota).  Liz found this sauce in Bhutan and has been on a quest to get more.  But while looking, I found Sriracha sauce, an essential for Vietnamese Pho.  It is unavailable in Malaysia.  You find things in strange places.

We ended up back in the hotel.  We had a delightful dinner in the open air restaurant, a grilled fish in banana leaf, some vegetables, and a nice pulao.  While local wine was on the menu we deferred instead for fresh lime and soda, and a local lager.  The rest of the time we spend sitting around the pool, catching up on the Internet.

People love to have their photo's taken

Yes, we are still in Fort Kochi

We love signs

The next morning we had breakfast (not good, not bad) with weak coffee.  I assisted the hotel staff to print my boarding passes (a tick in the wrong box caused all the problems), and waited for the travel agent representative to arrive.  Precisely on time, I met with him and we conducted our business quickly.  I have found in India, that people are very punctual.

We do not recommend this tour agent!!

A wall mural

After conducting our business we went for a walk, and I managed to get lost.  We ended up making a purchase of a blouse for Liz, that we needed to return for a size change.  Our guide for the afternoon assisted us in finding the store. Indian sizes can very greatly, but for accurate European sizing go to Fabindia.  There was a store in Fort Kochin, but we did not visit it. There are stores throughout the country, but main stores in New Delhi are fantastic with selection and sales assistance.  They even have international shipping assistance.

We visited the Chinese Fishing Nets, but this time got a good explanation, and walked out on the net structure, and saw the fishermen actually catching fish (only twice a day at high tide).  The catch was meager with the five workers sharing with the owner the proceeds from the catch.

Catch of the day

Working on the Chinese Nets

A seventy-five year old fisherman

 I think they also share the tips from posing for photos.  We then walked past the Portuguese bastion (one one of the original remains).  It is being renovated as the Indian Department of Revenue has vacated the premises.  Much of the historical beach area has been preserved, in part due to the presence of the Indian Navy.

A goat walking along the wall of a urban canal

Clothes are dried on all available services

St. Francis Church is a relic from the past.  First build by the Portuguese, and then converted to a Dutch Reformed Church, later converted to Anglican, and now Church of India.  It contains the original resting place for Vasco de Gama.  I know, you all remember Vasco de Gama from elementary school history classes.  Hanging above the nave are large panels of cloth attached to ropes going through holes in the walls.  These were early fans with people standing outside pulling on the ropes to cool the congregants.  On this Sunday afternoon, the church choir was rehearsing Christmas carols.

Little Flower Parish

Lunch before our tour

Yet another fish to be devoured

We then visited Jew Street, and the Synagogue.  The history of Judaism in Kerala is long, starting with migrants following the destruction of the Temple in Jerusalem.  One group migrated to Kerala, were after a period of time were allowed to establish a Jewish Kingdom within his realm.  This lasted until the 15th century when the Portuguese in conjunction with a Sultanate destroyed them.  They were replaced with another European Jewish community.  The two communities did not recognize each other until recently as the Jewish population of Kerala has dropped to three families (9 individuals in the 70's and older).

Gate to the Synagogue

Our guide for Fort Kochi, Tomy e.teejaytomy@yahoo.com

Our driver for Kerala, Rajeev

This was the end of our tour in Kerala, but we had several hours until our flight back to Kuala Lumpur.  We do not like hanging out in airports, especially prior to check in (in India the authorities generally do not allow access to the terminals until check-in begins.  So to waste time, the driver took us to the "largest mall" in Kochi.  As we approached he pointed out the line of cars waiting to enter the underground parking lot.  We joined the queue, and actually found a parking space.  The driver gave us 45 minutes to explore.  The interior was 5 stories, with various department stores.  Some sort of contest was being run at a TATA Nano exhibit.   They sell cars in shopping centres in India.  We wandered for a while, purchased nothing and met our driver (and  tour company agent) for our 45 minute trip to the airport.

The flight to Kuala Lumpur was a little late, but we arrived on time.  We disembarked, went through immigration, collected our luggage, passed customs and were in our taxi within 15-20 minutes of landing.

Our India trip is now over,  we will return in a year, after our trip to Sri Lanka in 2013.  But Laos is next in early 2013.