Sunday, March 31, 2013

Raptor Watch - Malaysia

Every March the Malaysian Nature Society (MNS) holds "Raptor Watch" to welcome the raptors (birds of prey) as they migrate north. The weekend event has three major activities - visiting booths, taking walks, and looking skyward for raptors.

Bird Group Booth: Go to site for information, t-shirts,
and note cards
The MNS Selangor Bird Group, friendly, knowledgeable bird watchers staff an active booth - they make you want to be a bird watcher. When we approach they asked us  "Do you think that you are too advance for our beginners' bird watching class?" Too advanced! The question should have been "are you advanced enough?" We signed up for the 2014 class (away when 2013 class is offered).

A critical mass of serious bird watchers show up for the event - if not to see the birds, to eye the manufacturers' display of sophisticated cameras and binoculars.  They also sponsor lectures on birds, day and weekend bird watching trips, and workshops, e.g., photographing birds. We left the booth with 2 t-shirts and note cards.

We met an American retiree who was travelling with a Malaysian friends to bird watching sites throughout the country and region. His card identified him as "a bird watcher" and "grandfather." Birding groups from the Philippines, Thailand, China, and Taiwan were also there. China has a flier describing 5 possible birding trips with enticing names like "16 Day Easy Winter Birding." A review of costs suggests the trips aren't for casual birders. Even if you will never go bird watching in China, check their website to see why people go crazy over birds. I went to a discussion on Asian bird festivals and left convinced that bird watchers are important to international conservation efforts.

Among games and activities for children was a face painting booth. Some adults got into the spirit of the day and had a bird face painted on their face.

A not-to-be missed activity is to take a walk with a MNS member. We took the mangrove walk and a forest walk. I was interested in the mangrove walk, because mangroves are important to maintaining the coastline ecology. Our guide gave us a well-informed, mini-lecture (worthy of note taking). Two highlights were that a mangrove tree breathes through its exposed roots and it redirects the salt in the water to surface of its leaves.
The edge of a mangrove forest
As we walked we saw legions of soldier crabs heading out to sea. We immediately saw the aptness of its name. One of children spotted a puffer fish (a seriously poisonious fish) stranded in a shallow puddle. She "rescued" it put it in deeper water. Of course, the fish headed back to where it came from (the shallow puddle).
Close ups of soldier crabs

The puffer fish

We heard that birds start appearing as early as 10:00 a.m. and the last arrivals might come in at 1:00. We had expected that they would fly in later, but its their show. We hiked up to the lighthouse and stood on a ledge to wait. As you can see were among birders with serious camera equipment. There were also bird counters stationed at the lighthouse. The birds fly in from Sumatra and the lighthouse is located on the nearest point on the Asian continent (10 nautical miles). We walked down to the resort (to check out) before the first bird appeared. By the time we reached the resort we could spot the raptors.

Waiting for the raptors to appear
Raptors captured on an every day camera
Raptor Watch showed MNS at its best - diverse members, interesting activities, and informative guides. What was most impressive was the number of children and adolescents. Apparently the schools have nature clubs and their members were all over the places - usually being herded in by a teacher. MNS effectively meets many needs and interests. We don't take advantage of all it offers, but we know our membership money is going to preserve the country's environment and educate the next generation about nature.

Wearing the t-shirt of the day


Logistics: Raptor Watch was held on the grounds to the PNB Ilham Resort, Batu 10, Tanjung Biru, Port Dickson, Malaysia. We booked for two nights - it was pleasant and relaxing, but probably better to suited to families. We took a train from KL Sentral Station. We took the express train (RM13) that goes to Singapore; we could have taken the KT Commuter which is cheaper and a little slower. At Seremban we walked to the bus station and to the bus to Port Dickson (RM 4) - a seriously long trip (at least 40 minutes) and then a taxi to the resort (RM 20). Next time we will hire a taxi from KL for the day. Start by going to the light house, view the exhibits, possibly take a MNS walk and head for home. Faster with a lot less wasted time. 

Thursday, March 28, 2013

A Trip up the Mekong

The Mekong traverses major parts of Asia, descending from the Tibetan plateau in China, through or adjacent to Myanmar, Thailand, Laos, Cambodia, and Vietnam.  Prior to this trip, I had never seen the Mekong...I just never made the time to go to the delta region when living in Vietnam.

The Mekong shortly after sunrise


This was dry season. The Mekong was low, vast areas of sandbars were exposed, and the river had retreated from its banks.  River boats were still plying their routes.  In a number of places we saw large bridges being built to span the river, Huay Xai and near Sainabuli are but two examples.  Roads are being built to ease transit between cities in Laos, and reliance on the river for transport is beginning to decline.  You can no longer able to travel by boat between Vientiane and Luang Prabang.  Dams are planned for the middle Mekong in Laos, and in the upper reaches of the Mekong in China.  In a few years the river will be managed with all the problems associated with the lower Mississippi River.  We decided to go upstream from Luang Prabang to Huay Xai by riverboat so we could experience travel on the river before it disappears forever.

The Mekong in the morning mist


I was reminded of how difficult travel could be in the 19th and early 20th century when reading a history of Laos.  French colonial officials would spend 6 weeks travelling from France to Saigon in Vietnam, and then spend and additional 6-8 weeks travelling up the Mekong by boat to Vientiane.  And the mortality rate was extremely high due to Malaria and other tropical diseases.  Talk about a hazardous duty assignment.  Today, moderately hard travel has us sleeping under chemically treated mosquito nets only in infested areas, and drinking bottled water.  For most of our travel we don't take anti-malarial drugs.  I can no longer count on losing 10-15 lb on a trip to SE Asia.  Maybe we are travelling at a higher level than we used to or health conditions are improving.  I think it is a combination of both.

River traffic on the Mekong - a slow boat


For our river travel, we had several choices: slow boat, speedboat, or a "luxury slow boat." We chose the later, in part because we wanted relative comfort (seat pads), non-overloaded boats as is the case of the slow boat, and to protect our hearing (on the speedboat passengers wear helmets).  The speedboats are basically longboats with an automotive engine on the rear powering a direct drive prop.

We took a short trip by tuk-tuk from our hotel to the dock at 6:45 am.  At the dock we were met by the staff who checked us off a list maintained on a smart phone.  We produced passports for checking-in.  Our luggage....two roller-boards were carried down the steep uneven steps from the street to the boat.  Water level was 100 feet below street level.  We boarded and the luggage was stowed below decks.  As we settled in fellow passengers arrived,  mostly a French tour group, with a smattering of Australians, British, and eastern Europeans.  A young Australian we met at the Elephant Conservation Centre was among the last to board.  He had just returned from Veng Vang and was suffering from several days of heavy partying.

Promptly at 7 am we were off.  We had two pilots and several additional crew members.  A short safety instruction was given in French.  Evidently, life preservers were available, but in a locked cabinet under the pilots platform in the bow.  We were assured the pilots were very experienced.  Shortly after departure breakfast was served, french pastry, fruit, juice, and coffee/tea.

Exposed rock formations in the Mekong - dry season water levels
As we moved up the river, we could see the towering rock formations that line the river channel.  Since it was dry season, all the formations were exposed.  Navigation guides on top of the rock formations, were obviously well worn over the years when the river was at flood stage.

An altar in the lower cave of Pak Ou
About 90 minutes after departure our first port of call, the Pak Ou Caves.  This was a short stop, 20-30 minutes.  We climbed up to the caves which contained hundreds of Buddha images.  We lit prayer lamps and joss sticks while thinking of a sick friend.    According to the guide, the Laotian king would annually make a pilgrimage to the caves to honor the Buddhas.  We visited only the lower cave, forgoing another steep climb to the upper cave.

Pak Ou Cave
After departing Pak Ou Caves  we cruised upriver, making a short stop to pick up some tourists who stayed at a remote lodge along the river.  We saw large beach areas along the river.  While beaches looked arid, it was evidently fertile with corn, beans, squash and peanuts.  Some crops were ready to be harvested. At one stop, we were told that freak rains and winds a month earlier had destroyed the maturing corn crop.  Villagers raise chickens, pigs, cattle, goats, and water buffalo.  Animal production is a "cash" crop and the meat is not eaten within the village.  Other protein sources are used.  As a bird watcher we met later in Malaysia said of Laotians,  if it moved, they ate it.

A Lao-Tai village
A whiskey still
Villages are located on the bluffs above the river.  Villagers build bamboo thatched walkways to get over the sandy beach.  We stopped at a "whiskey" village, with an operational rice whiskey still.  I sampled and it reminded me of rice wine I tasted near Dak To in Vietnam.  I did not purchase any, but we purchased locally produced Hmong textiles in this mixed Lao/Hmong village.  The Lao government has moved the Hmong closer to the river so it can provide services.

Village weavers selling cloths

A child in the village

Village scene


Along Lao-Tai, Hmong, and Kamu rivers villages seem to line the riverbank.  Each ethnic group has its own style of housing, with Lao-Tai, and Hmong building on the ground and Kamu building on raised stilts.  In this area electricity is available, as well as satellite dishes.   In one village, electricity was installed a year ago, and an electric meter I looked at showed a grand total of 256 kwh used in one year.  (When in Raleigh, NC,  our base usage was 1,000 kwh per month).   A local medical officer was present and we were told schools were nearby on the outskirts with one primary school serving several villages.

The village medical officer

  Secondary schools are in larger communities.  While most of the villages were served by roads, river travel was preferred due to speed, and I think comfort (no potholes).

Gardens on the banks of the Mekong
Padi field after harvest


Besides the crops listed above, a hay like plant with fronds that are used for household brooms.  padi is grown.  It appears the Lao-Tai have first choice on the padi field, with the Hmong, and Kamu relegated to more remote fields.  In the villages among the Kamu, individual plots of land are allocated to a family.  As the family grows and children marry, the plots are subdivided for household formation.  When the plots can not longer sustain subdivision a request is made to the village head and additional land is allocated on the village fringe.  The villages we saw had about 800 inhabitants.
Village products
Palm fronds are dried on the sand banks. Children spend time beating them on the sand to free them from their seeds. Behind the villages were padi fields.

Sunset on the Mekong as we approach Pak Beng
We stopped at Luang Say Lodge at Pak Beng for the night.  Shortly after arrival, we were treated to a dance performance with Hmong, Lao-Tai and Kamu dances.  As in most tourist performances, audience members are invited to dance.  They always seem to pick on Liz, an ardent non-dancer graciously joined in.  Hotel employment assists the local economy, by hiring and training locals, and by setting standards for local agricultural production.  The food was acceptable, and the hotel had an extensive French wine list at reasonable prices.  I took advantage of the clear sky to use our Sky Scout to look at the stars, something we virtually never see in Kuala Lumpur.

The next day included one village visit, a customs stop when the boat entered the area where the Mekong served as the border between Thailand and Laos.  We could compare the relative economies of the two countries.  Thailand appeared to have a higher standard of living, with a lot of road construction and river levies being built.
Proof that a mosquito net can be romantic
At 5 pm we docked in Huay Xai.  Our fellow passengers hurried off to exit Laos, and cross the river to Thailand before the immigration and customs offices closed at 6 pm.  We chose to stay at a local hotel.  We left the next morning by air to Vientiane.  Lonely Planet wondered why the airport was built at the top of a hill.  The simple explanation is security, and why build on the flatland where padi and other crops can be grown.  It reminded me of the remote airports in the mountains of central Vietnam.  We flew on a Laotian Airlines MA-60 (a Chinese manufactured two-engine short field aircraft which I later found had been banned from flying in Indonesia and has not been approved for flying in Europe and North America).

A SMART has migrated from SW China



Dogs are used as movable billboards for a local mobile phone company
Airport Security (an X-ray was available and used)


Our aircraft to Vientiane



Thursday, March 21, 2013

Laos: Notes on where we slept, ate, and did

Mini-Mart sign in Huay Xai - A Grass Roots Entrepreneur
We spent 17 days in Lao. For the most part our lack of advance planning worked. A lesson from last year - don't travel doing Chinese New Year without reservations. We watched a steady stream of people walked from guest house to guest house in Luang Prabang looking for a vacancy. We had reservations, but finding an available restaurant was challenging.

Lodging:

To find hotels we relied on Agoda and Trip Advisor. In Vientiane and Luang Prabang we paid about USD40 for clean rooms with firm beds, no bugs, and a central location. Some had cable television others did not. Some included breakfast, others did not. None had elevators, but staff helped with luggage. Laundry was charged by the kilogram rather than by the piece, which I hope never changes.

Vientiane: Hotel Khamvongsa Perhaps the best value in the old section of central Vientiane. For breakfast we could chose from 6 set meals and fruit drinks (we alternated between banana shakes and pineapple juice).  The homey atmosphere at breakfast seemed to motivate visiting NGO staff to conduct business loudly over the phone. Aren't they trained?

Luang Prabang: Many comfortable guest houses that are relatively similar to each other. We stayed at the Ammata Ammata Guest House and Phounsab Guest House. The Phousab is located on Luang Prabang's busy main street, but our room in the back as totally quiet

Huay Xai - A hard scrabble city at the end of our Mekong boat trip. We stayed at a recommended guest house. We saw a bloody syringe in the lobby, which colored our opinion of the town and the hotel. Similar to Luang Prabang Huay Xia probably had a number of similar options, but a decidedly lower standard.

Food:

In Vientiane and Luang Prabang we primarily ate French food - it was well prepared and cheaper than similar foods in Kuala Lumpur. For breakfast we had baguette sandwiches made with fresh baguettes (at least once the waitress took our order, went off on a motor bike and returned with baguettes) or soup. Soups and pho were good, but spicying varied (chili sauce available on request) - a soup costing more than 15 kip (USD2) was enough for two.

As for Lao food we couldn't try Luang Prabang's better known Lao/fusion restaurants, because Chinese New Year celebrants had made reservations. Un Petit Nid became our "restaurant by default." Its varied menu was reasonably priced. One night we had tomato soup and pizza (comfort food night) and another Lao food. All were tasty. On Valentine's Day we were surprised to see it had a Malaysian flag (Malaysian owner)/.

Malaysian flag in Luang Prabang (Malaysian owner)

We ate at several places along the rivers. Mekong River places cost less with huge portions. I ordered a Croque Monsieur and received two sandwiches. Places along the Nam Khan were pricier and somewhat more upmarket..

A half salad!
In Vientiane we ate The Noodle People (next to the Hotel Khamvongsa) for its good, inexpensive noodle soups and the Viengkanphou across from the Lao National Cultural Hall to satisfy a sudden craving for a hamburg. At Viengkanphou we were rewarded with good baked potatoes; the hamburger was large but its texture wasn't to our liking.
Yummy baked potatoes - sometime you need a familiar favorite
Closer to our hotel we had lunch at Le Vendome. Doug chose the 22000 kip (less than USD4) lunch and I had an enormous chicken salad. Doug's arrived promptly - after more than 30 minutes we were ready to confirm that my order was in progress when it arrived.
Less than USD4 - chicken drumsticks and pasta salad

Enormous chicken salad - I enjoyed every bite
The favorite of the trip was L'Adresse de Tinay. On its posted menu was a cheese plate - a new craving motivated a sudden need for a mid afternoon snack. We made a dinner reservation and chose its fixed price menu. My dinner began with broccoli cappuccino style - it was amazing (far lighter than I imagined). The restaurant cost more than other Vientiane restaurants (at least the ones we ate at or checked out), but far less than KL. And the food was great - enough to encourage to plan for return visited to Vientiane and many more dinners.

In Huay Xai the general scruffiness of the town and syringe at the hotel ruined our appetite. We stopped at a mini-mart (on street side away from the river). We were looking for cheese-filled Ritz crackers. The shop had Ritz crackers but none with cheese. The owner brought out Laughing Cow cheese portions and a knife. How could we say "no"? He showed his sign (at the top of this posting). The next morning we returned to snap him holding his sign, but he was too busy making baguette sandwiches to pose. So if you are in Huay Xai look for the shop and reward this plucky Laotian by buying something.

Entrepreneur at work in Houay Say

A way to spot the shop - these are in front
An example that nothing goes to waste in Lao
What we did: Some tourist sites

We have talked about the major sites we saw along our trip: Green Discovery Tour of Vientiane, Elephant Conservation Centre in Sayaboury, Traditional Arts and Ethnology Centre in Luang Prabang, and our trip along the Mekong (to be posted soon). On our last day in Vientiane we went to the Lao National Museum and bookstore. The museum was a bit of a hodgepodge, but an interest way to spend a few hours. The 2nd floor had a section on modern (post-French) political leaders - a reminder that history is written by the victors. Any reference to America or Americans was preceded with the adjective "imperialistic." There was a display by the various ministries that looked like a state fair display. No updating since they were created earlier in the 21st century.

We stopped at Monument Books - it had good collection of books on Laos. Overall a large and pleasant bookshop. We picked up some books and a calender




Monday, March 11, 2013

Laos - More than elephants, monks,and river cruises

We enjoyed all the normally tourist things in Laos, but it was our visit to two organizations that will bring us back. Both Laotian organizations are improving the lives of Laotians. Big Brother Mouse adds to their literacy and the number of people who read for pleasure. Saoban, the product of years of community development work, empowers local artisans to produce quality products and set fair prices for them. If you are a tourist in Luang Prabang buy a book to keep or donate. In Vientiane shop!

Big Brother Mouse: Yikes, we didn't take any pictures. A photo of bungalow with books won't lift one's spirits as much as just walking in. Big Brother Mouse (BBM) is an all-Lao (Lao-owned, run, and staffed) book publisher and distributor located in Luang Prabang. Its mission is to show Laotian children and youth that "literacy is fun." For some children part of the fun may be a visit by a part-time staffer, Boom-Boom, an elephant who helps deliver books to remote areas.  BBM designs, writes, and publishes books in Lao and Lao/English. Some stories are original. Others are translated. A good story is a good story no matter where its from.

Visitors to Luang Prabang can drop into Big Brother Mouse and purchase books in Lao to leave in villages or give as tips. We bought a small packet of pre-selected books for the staff to include in a book party. At set times tourists can engage in English conversation with local people. We met a woman who learned  about the lives of novice monks from her conversations at BBM.

BBM seeks donors to sponsor the publication of a book or a book party. Sponsoring a book or book party may be an ideal gift for a special occasion - birth, bar mitzah, retirement, and so on. We plan to sponsor a book now, and perhaps a book party when we return to Lao. Visit the web site to learn more, to be impressed and inspired.

Saoban: First our back story - I am not much of a shopper. We have everything we need and then some. After buying virtually nothing in India - I later regretted that we hadn't purchased hostess gifts and the like. We can give interesting gifts, and more importantly we help local artisans. I vowed not to make the same mistake in Laos. By our last day in Vientiane we had a suitcase full of gifts.Good karma must have been radiating from Saoban. The store's display was beautiful, and the story behind the shop was awesome.



Saoban is a social business that evolved out of PADETC, a Lao community development NGO. During our visit we chatted with Shui-Meng, the shop's owner, about her work in community development. She worked with village women help them think about and set fair prices for their products, e.g., that their labor was not free and that materials (even if locally accessed) had monetary value. As part of pricing their labor the women needed to think about what they wanted from their work, e.g., ability to educate their children. They learned the importance of setting prices and sticking to them, especially the need not to accept lower prices for their products and thus undercut each other. She helped them understand the importance of quality - using natural dyes rather than cheap chemically produced dyes and keeping consistency between products.

Doug and I with Shui Meng -
An inspiration for all those who want to empower women

Shui Meng  and other developers did not lecture village women. Rather they undertook the long process of gaining the women's trust and soliciting their input. One consequence is assuring the sustainability of a way of thinking about how to value work, especially if new products and crafts are developed. While Saoban sells the products these women produce, the weavers are free to market their products to other shops and outlets.Truly the women are empowered. Here is an observation Shui Meng recently posted on Saoban's FB page "You will no longer take for granted what goes into your bowl of rice or how much work goes into your little scarf or bamboo basket once you spend sometime with the people who grow the rice or make the stuff you use everyday."

What did we buy? A piece of fabric, now hanging on our wall. We hadn't found anything that won us over and had decided to wait until "next time."  I took a photo, but it doesn't give it justice. Here is a youtube presentation to show how such pieces are woven. It suggests what our design looks like. We also bought scarves and napkins. After a short debate we decided against spoons crafted from aluminum contained in bombs dropped in Laos. We had sympathy for the project, but didn't know what we would do with more spoons. While we talked about the spoons Shui Meng quoted a women in a bombed village "Why did they (US) hate us?"

We talked with Shui-Meng for about 20 minutes. Afterward we Googled Saoban and PADETC. Our admiration grew. Saoban's FB page includes videos and slide shows of the artisans at work. Visits to Saoban's villages can be arranged - something for our next trip. PADETC's website said that it welcomes experienced and skilled volunteers, preferably volunteers who can stay for at least 3  months.  In 2013 it is particularly interested in hearing from Environmental experts who have time to volunteer in Laos. A sabbatical or transition to retirement project? Makes me wish that I had some hands on skills.

The PADETC website had a link to Sombath.org that tracks the status of Sombath Somphony the founder of PADETC who went missing on 15 December.  A reminder that a tourist can overlook the human rights and development struggles that go on in Laos and other countries.

Friday, March 1, 2013

Sight Seeing in Luang Prabang

Wat Xieng Thong
This trip we let Laos open up before us, more out of laziness than a travel strategy. A major challenge was to understand Laos' history and its current politics. We found two useful resources after we returned to KL. The Bamboo Palace: Discovering the Lost Dynasty of Laos, is not about uncovering an ancient civilization. Rather the author tries to learn what happen to members of the royal family who disappeared in 1975. Laos' politics are elusive. A January, 2013 New York Times article gave some insights into the current government in the context of the disappearance of Sombath Somphone, the retired founder of the NGO, PADECT;  we have followed his case closely with great concern and sorrow.

Palace - neither old nor grandiose
At the Royal Palace Museum (no need to search for it - it is on the main street) we hired a guide to fill in the many blanks in our knowledge (you need to ask at the ticket collector and they will find a staff member for you). The French built the palace between 1904-1909. Only one coronated king, Sisavangvong, who died in 1959, lived in it. He was succeeded by his son, who delayed his coronation until the country's civil war ended so that he would rule over a united country. Instead, when the civil war ended so did the monarchy.

Immediately behind the palace was the garage containing vintage cars, including a Ford Edsel, a gift from the United States. In another building was a photography exhibit, The Floating Buddha, a must see while at the palace.

A dance performance at the National Theatre (on the palace grounds) consisted of short pieces including a scene from the Ramayana. The dancers who played monkeys added a note of realism by scratching fleas and other vermin each time they entered the stage.

They put their masks on to please the tourist photographers, but clearly the cast preferred to be seen as their real selves when it came to accepting applause.


The cast unmasked
At the other end of the city near where the Mekong and Nam Khan meet is Wat Xieng Thong. This is one place where I wish that we had a guide. There was a lot to see, but what we were seeing and its importance was sometimes missed. The Wat's "campus" is large and restful. At the souvenir shop we bought refrigerator magnets and mobiles that cost less than in town.

For those dressed inappropriately
Mosaic on chapel's exterior wall
Carriage & urn to carry king's ashes
Need a guide to know more

The Traditional Arts and Ethnography Centre (TAEC) is a small, well done museum about the hill tribes. I found it particularly informative in describing marriage customs. For the most part the tribes prohibit marriages within a village. Village festivals serve to allow young men and young women meet each other other. The future brides and grooms are both in their mid-teens - no stories of daughters being "sold off" to old men. The museum had excellent videos that told stories to fill in the details. I was disappointed that I didn't see any discussion of death rituals, probably a sign of my age.

TAEC had a small gift shop - the proceeds go the tribal people - and a snack bar featuring regional snacks. While Doug took pictures I chatted with a man at reception. He was from a village and won a scholarship to prepare him for a teaching career. The next logical step would be to return to a village as a teacher, but he planned to continue studying so that he can find a career in a city. A conversation that could be had in both developed and developing countries.

Traditional clothes for sale at TAEC gift shop

Men at work - ticket sellers at TAEC
 Our visit to Ock Pop Tok showed us what community development can achieve. The Ock Pop Tok shop offers free tuk tuk rides to its living arts centre. It was a work place for local weavers. It houses a crafts school (half day and full day lessons), a guest house, a restaurant, and gift shop. The project is impressive and might serve as model for other developing countries. Their website, especially the blog, makes for good reading. We visited two Ock Pop Tok gift shops; they hire retail savy sales staff. At one as I was leaving, having vetoed the selection of purses, a salesman pulled out the perfect item from the pile of sale items. At another a woman's casual glance at a scarf ending up with a saleswoman tying it on her - it looked perfect and she bought it! Doug watched the demonstration carefully and we bought a scarf as well.

Ock Pop Tok workers - silkworms
Think about the difficulty of getting pattern colors right
Making Hmong Batik

No pics for Big Brother Mouse - too bad. as we fell in love with the project as soon as we walked in. They produce and distribute books to children in Lao villages. Included among their staff is an elephant who helps with jungle deliveries. Big Brother Mouse offers donors opportunities to fund the publication of a book, sponsor a village book party, or send an item from its Amazon wish list. Visitors in Luang Prabang can buy books to distribute during their travels, donate a pre-selected package of books for Big Brother Mouse to distribute, or help young people in the community practice English.